Visit Oahu's North Shore in the 'offseason'

By JAYMES SONG

updated 2:34 a.m. ET May 18, 2006

HALEIWA, Hawaii - The true stars of Oahu's famed North Shore aren't the actors in ABC's "Lost" or top-selling musician Jack Johnson, they're the monster waves that roll in every winter.

The rest of the year, when the 30-foot surf and the crowds are long gone, the North Shore returns to its usual laid-back, country lifestyle. It's perfect for swimming, golfing, hiking, snorkeling or a lazy day at the beach with family.

This remote coastline stretches for more than 20 miles and seems a world away from the high-rise jungle in Honolulu. But it's actually only about an hour drive, or two hours with a stop to stretch at the Dole Plantation.

While driving along Kamehameha Highway, keep an eye out for the colorful Haleiwa sign directing you to food, gas, shops and beaches. If you spot the sign, featuring a boy catching a wave, take a picture while it's still there. The signs are stolen more often than unattended bags on the beach.

The town of Haleiwa is the gateway to the North Shore. There are several gift shops, surf shops, restaurants, art galleries and real estate companies all peddling a piece of paradise.

You won't find the Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton brands that dot Kalakaua Avenue in Waikiki. The big names here are Local Motion, Billabong and Quiksilver.

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Haleiwa is where Queen Lilioukalani, Hawaii's last reigning monarch, spent her summers.

A trip here is never complete without stopping at Matsumoto's, known for its shave ice, Hawaii's version of snow cones. There's usually a line out the door at this place that has served Hollywood stars such as Tom Hanks and Adam Sandler, who wore a Matsumoto's T-shirt in the film "50 First Dates."

Two bucks will get you a giant cone with vanilla ice cream or azuki beans inside. There are dozens of flavors, but the Rainbow (strawberry, pineapple and lemon) and the Hawaiian (pineapple, coconut and banana) are the top sellers at Matsumoto's, a North Shore favorite since 1951.

Another must-eat North Shore treat is fresh Kahuku shrimp. Cooked and sold from large trucks along the road in Kahuku, a plate costs about $12 and includes a couple of scoops of rice and about a dozen shrimp. There used to be only a few, but now there are at least a half dozen - all claiming to be "world famous" or the "original."

I'm still a fan of Giovanni's, next to the old Kahuku Sugar Mill. Its signature dish is the shrimp scampi, which is covered in garlic. I always get it with a side of fiery hot sauce.

Giovanni's white truck is covered with graffiti and messages of customers from around the world.

There are many activities to build your appetite, even with no waves to surf. Shark's Cove is one of the great snorkeling spots. It's across the street from the Foodland supermarket.

You can go skydiving or take a glider ride from Dillingham Airfield in Mokuleia, bird watch at the Waimea Valley Audubon Center, hike at Kaena Point, tour the sleepy former sugar town of Waialua or simply relax and watch the sun go down at Sunset Beach.

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